Offset Registration for Multi Block Linocuts

Accurate registration can be difficult when printing multi-block linocuts. Offset printing will show you exactly where your design will sit on each block, allowing you to cut a set of blocks that will print in perfect alignment. 

Begin by preparing a registration board. This will need to be large enough for your lino block plus space above for registration pins. Lay out your piece of lino and stick mount board to at least one corner around it to allow your lino block to be placed in the same spot every time. Use parcel tape to stick a pair of registration pins to the top of the board.

We will use mylar to offset the wet ink from one block to another. Mylar is ideal for a few reasons:

• it's transparent, allowing us to see where the design sits on the blocks and check the ink has transferred fully.
• it's non-absorbent, so the ink will stay wet for longer
• it can be cleaned and used again for other projects

Cut a piece of mylar large enough to cover the lino block and reach up to the registration pins. Place it on top of your registration board. Clip one registration tab into each pin and stick it to the mylar with masking tape. 

First, carve one block of your design. Choose the key layer that gives the main detail or outline of an image: the key block. (Watch this video to see how the key block in this project was carved).

Ink up your key block using water-based ink (we're using Magenta Schmincke Ink). Water-based ink will dry quickly on the block so that we can work into it quickly with our carving tools.

Place the inked up lino on the registration board, using the mount board corners as a guide. Attach the mylar to the registration pins and gently lower it onto the lino. Using a baren, spoon or your hand, rub on the back of the mylar to transfer the ink. 

Lift the mylar and replace the lino with a new piece, making sure to snuggle it up to the mount board corners.

Lay the mylar down and burnish again by rubbing on the back to transfer the ink to the block. Repeat this by re-inking and transferring to mylar for as many blocks as are needed for the final print.

Leave the print to dry. As we're using water-based inks, this shouldn't take too long. Wipe the wet ink from the key block and mylar. 

We can now use the offset print to show up where to carve the second block. For this design, we want a solid block of colour to fill in the jumper, with a few lines carved out for detail. 

When all your blocks are carved, prepare your printing paper (we're using Shoji) using the same method as when we prepared the mylar. 

Ink up the first block. If you are using a different colour, it's advisable to first clean the offset print from the lino in case of transference. You could use water-based or oil-based ink for this. 

Print the first block onto the paper using the registration pins and tabs. Use a baren or spoon to hand burnish the print. You could also print using a press.

Print subsequent layers on top. The registration pins and tabs will ensure the paper goes down in the same place each time, meaning you can swap between blocks, pieces of paper and colours without ruining the registration. You may want to print all the layers of the print on one test piece of paper, and then work back into the blocks to refine the carving before printing an entire edition. Ideally, wait for each layer to dry before printing on top (especially if using oil-based inks). 

For this project you will need:

• Piece of board to use for registration 
• Mount board
• Ternes Burton Registration Pins and Tabs
• Masking Tape
• Parcel Tape
• Lino x 2 (or more for more layers)
• Cutting Tools
• Mylar
• Water-based relief printing ink (like Schmincke) - for offset printing
• Relief printing ink for your final print - this could be water-based or oil-based.
  
• Baren or spoon
• Paper to print onto (we're using Shoji)